whitebeard

Don't curse the darkness, light a candle.

Monday, November 27, 2006

Cut and Run, the Only Brave Thing to Do

Sunday, November 26th, 2006

Friends,

Tomorrow marks the day that we will have been in Iraq longer than we were in all of World War II.

That's right. We were able to defeat all of Nazi Germany, Mussolini, and the entire Japanese empire in LESS time than it's taken the world's only superpower to secure the road from the airport to downtown Baghdad.

And we haven't even done THAT. After 1,347 days, in the same time it took us to took us to sweep across North Africa, storm the beaches of Italy, conquer the South Pacific, and liberate all of Western Europe, we cannot, after over 3 and 1/2 years, even take over a single highway and protect ourselves from a homemade device of two tin cans placed in a pothole. No wonder the cab fare from the airport into Baghdad is now running around $35,000 for the 25-minute ride. And that doesn't even include a friggin' helmet.

Is this utter failure the fault of our troops? Hardly. That's because no amount of troops or choppers or democracy shot out of the barrel of a gun is ever going to "win" the war in Iraq. It is a lost war, lost because it never had a right to be won, lost because it was started by men who have never been to war, men who hide behind others sent to fight and die.

Let's listen to what the Iraqi people are saying, according to a recent poll conducted by the University of Maryland:

** 71% of all Iraqis now want the U.S. out of Iraq.

** 61% of all Iraqis SUPPORT insurgent attacks on U.S. troops.

Yes, the vast majority of Iraqi citizens believe that our soldiers should be killed and maimed! So what the hell are we still doing there? Talk about not getting the hint.

There are many ways to liberate a country. Usually the residents of that country rise up and liberate themselves. That's how we did it. You can also do it through nonviolent, mass civil disobedience. That's how India did it. You can get the world to boycott a regime until they are so ostracized they capitulate. That's how South Africa did it. Or you can just wait them out and, sooner or later, the king's legions simply leave (sometimes just because they're too cold). That's how Canada did it.

The one way that DOESN'T work is to invade a country and tell the people, "We are here to liberate you!" -- when they have done NOTHING to liberate themselves. Where were all the suicide bombers when Saddam was oppressing them? Where were the insurgents planting bombs along the roadside as the evildoer Saddam's convoy passed them by? I guess ol' Saddam was a cruel despot -- but not cruel enough for thousands to risk their necks. "Oh no, Mike, they couldn't do that! Saddam would have had them killed!" Really? You don't think King George had any of the colonial insurgents killed? You don't think Patrick Henry or Tom Paine were afraid? That didn't stop them. When tens of thousands aren't willing to shed their own blood to remove a dictator, that should be the first clue that they aren't going to be willing participants when you decide you're going to do the liberating for them.

A country can HELP another people overthrow a tyrant (that's what the French did for us in our revolution), but after you help them, you leave. Immediately. The French didn't stay and tell us how to set up our government. They didn't say, "we're not leaving because we want your natural resources." They left us to our own devices and it took us six years before we had an election. And then we had a bloody civil war. That's what happens, and history is full of these examples. The French didn't say, "Oh, we better stay in America, otherwise they're going to kill each other over that slavery issue!"

The only way a war of liberation has a chance of succeeding is if the oppressed people being liberated have their own citizens behind them -- and a group of Washingtons, Jeffersons, Franklins, Ghandis and Mandellas leading them. Where are these beacons of liberty in Iraq? This is a joke and it's been a joke since the beginning. Yes, the joke's been on us, but with 655,000 Iraqis now dead as a result of our invasion (source: Johns Hopkins University), I guess the cruel joke is on them. At least they've been liberated, permanently.

So I don't want to hear another word about sending more troops (wake up, America, John McCain is bonkers), or "redeploying" them, or waiting four months to begin the "phase-out." There is only one solution and it is this: Leave. Now. Start tonight. Get out of there as fast as we can. As much as people of good heart and conscience don't want to believe this, as much as it kills us to accept defeat, there is nothing we can do to undo the damage we have done. What's happened has happened. If you were to drive drunk down the road and you killed a child, there would be nothing you could do to bring that child back to life. If you invade and destroy a country, plunging it into a civil war, there isn't much you can do 'til the smoke settles and blood is mopped up. Then maybe you can atone for the atrocity you have committed and help the living come back to a better life.

The Soviet Union got out of Afghanistan in 36 weeks. They did so and suffered hardly any losses as they left. They realized the mistake they had made and removed their troops. A civil war ensued. The bad guys won. Later, we overthrew the bad guys and everybody lived happily ever after. See! It all works out in the end!

The responsibility to end this war now falls upon the Democrats. Congress controls the purse strings and the Constitution says only Congress can declare war. Mr. Reid and Ms. Pelosi now hold the power to put an end to this madness. Failure to do so will bring the wrath of the voters. We aren't kidding around, Democrats, and if you don't believe us, just go ahead and continue this war another month. We will fight you harder than we did the Republicans. The opening page of my website has a photo of Nancy Pelosi and Harry Reid, each made up by a collage of photos of the American soldiers who have died in Bush's War. But it is now about to become the Bush/Democratic Party War unless swift action is taken.

This is what we demand:

1. Bring the troops home now. Not six months from now. NOW. Quit looking for a way to win. We can't win. We've lost. Sometimes you lose. This is one of those times. Be brave and admit it.

2. Apologize to our soldiers and make amends. Tell them we are sorry they were used to fight a war that had NOTHING to do with our national security. We must commit to taking care of them so that they suffer as little as possible. The mentally and physically maimed must get the best care and significant financial compensation. The families of the deceased deserve the biggest apology and they must be taken care of for the rest of their lives.

3. We must atone for the atrocity we have perpetuated on the people of Iraq. There are few evils worse than waging a war based on a lie, invading another country because you want what they have buried under the ground. Now many more will die. Their blood is on our hands, regardless for whom we voted. If you pay taxes, you have contributed to the three billion dollars a week now being spent to drive Iraq into the hellhole it's become. When the civil war is over, we will have to help rebuild Iraq. We can receive no redemption until we have atoned.

In closing, there is one final thing I know. We Americans are better than what has been done in our name. A majority of us were upset and angry after 9/11 and we lost our minds. We didn't think straight and we never looked at a map. Because we are kept stupid through our pathetic education system and our lazy media, we knew nothing of history. We didn't know that WE were the ones funding and arming Saddam for many years, including those when he massacred the Kurds. He was our guy. We didn't know what a Sunni or a Shiite was, never even heard the words. Eighty percent of our young adults (according to National Geographic) were not able to find Iraq on the map. Our leaders played off our stupidity, manipulated us with lies, and scared us to death.

But at our core we are a good people. We may be slow learners, but that "Mission Accomplished" banner struck us as odd, and soon we began to ask some questions. Then we began to get smart. By this past November 7th, we got mad and tried to right our wrongs. The majority now know the truth. The majority now feel a deep sadness and guilt and a hope that somehow we can make make it all right again.

Unfortunately, we can't. So we will accept the consequences of our actions and do our best to be there should the Iraqi people ever dare to seek our help in the future. We ask for their forgiveness.

We demand the Democrats listen to us and get out of Iraq now.

Yours,

Michael Moore
www.michaelmoore.com
mmflint@aol.com

posted by: Whitebeard at 07:20 | link | comments (2) |
iraq, us, war

Friday, November 17, 2006

To the World Can’t Wait Community:
I’ll be speaking about impeachment with Jerome McDonnell on Worldview, the global affairs program on WBEZ, Chicago public radio, Thursday, November 16, noon to 1 PM. Listen online.
Stay Tuned for more on Sunday, December 10th, Human Rights and Impeachment Day

War Crimes Suit Filed Against Rumsfeld in Germany
By Joshua Daniel Hershfield 11/14/06
An international grouping of lawyers has filed a 220-page lawsuit, calling on German prosecutors to investigate Donald Rumsfeld for sanctioning torture.  The complaint asks Germany's federal prosecutor Monika Harms to open an investigation and criminal prosecution that will examine the responsibility of high ranking US officials in the authorization of war crimes in the context of the so-called "War on Terror."
As Secretary of Defense, Rumsfeld has presided over these crimes and many more:
Torture at Abu Ghraib  
 
The suit is being brought on behalf of 11 detainees from Abu Ghraib and 1 detainee from GuantanamoBay.  The detainees, under the control of the US military, suffered electric shock, severe beatings, sleep and food deprivation, and sexual abuse.
German law allows the pursuit of war crimes cases regardless of where in the world they occur.
Torture Suit Star Witness, Former. Abu Ghraib Head Janis Karpinski Points to Signed Rumsfeld Memo Listing Harsh Interrogation Techniques read or listen
The Center for Constitutional Rights: Please join our effort! The letter appears below, first in German and then in English. The German Prosecutor has discretion to decide whether to initiate an investigation. It is critical that he hear from you so he knows that people around the world support this effort.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A Trucker’s View from the Road
Kim, long distance trucker and mom, writes about Marine returned form Fallujah, working at a Denny’s in RolloMO:
In Fallujah, it was like in the Bible,” he began slowly. “When they marked the houses with lamb’s blood, and the Angel of Death flew over and killed the firstborn sons in all the houses that weren’t marked.  They marked the houses…and the ones that weren’t marked, they had us go in and open fire and…” He stopped speaking and only made gestures.
“The kids?” asked my co-driver.
“Yes.”
The waiter’s words came a little faster now. “If people knew what was really happening over there, they’d rise up and say, ‘bring our kids home NOW!’ If people knew, they wouldn’t stand for it.”

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Debra Sweet
National Coordinator
The World Can’t Wait – Drive Out the Bush Regime
 
   

posted by: Whitebeard at 19:18 | link | comments |

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Published on Wednesday, November 8, 2006 by CommonDreams.org
Human Rights Denial Deserves Impeachment
by Peter Phillips

 

Human Rights belong to people collectively. To believe in rights for some and not others is a denial of the humanness of people worldwide. Yet, denial is exactly what Congress and George W. Bush did with the signing of the Military Commission Act of 2006. The new official U.S. policy is that torture and suspension of due process are acceptable for anyone the president deems to be a terrorist or terrorist supporter. This act is the overt denial of the inalienable rights of human beings propagated in our Declaration of Independence and the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

Our famous words, "We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness," did not declare that some men (and women) are without unalienable rights. Our independence was founded on the belief that all men and women are recognized by this nation as having innate rights derived from their humanness.

Likewise, the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, created by the United Nations in 1948 and signed and ratified by the U.S. Congress, specifies in its preamble that "recognition of the inherent dignity and of the equal and inalienable rights of all members of the human family is the foundation of freedom, justice and peace in the world."

The Universal Declaration of Human rights is a treaty that legally binds the United States government. Article 10 states that "everyone is entitled to full equality, to a fair and public hearing by an independent and impartial tribunal, in the determination of his rights and obligations and of any criminal charge against him," and Article 5 specifically prohibits torture or cruel, inhuman or degrading treatment or punishment.

For the U.S. government to unilaterally declare that our country will not comply with international human rights laws, nor uphold the core values of our nation's foundation is an indication of extremism that supersedes the values and beliefs of the American people. When such an extremism exists, we may need to take seriously the founders' declaration that, " to secure these rights, Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed, - That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new Government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their Safety and Happiness."

The U.S. government is actively torturing people to death. One need only read the 44 official U.S. military autopsy reports on civilian detainees from Afghanistan and Iraq in 2002 to 2004 posted on the American Civil Liberties website to see the horrendous details of deaths by "strangulation," "asphyxiation" and "blunt force injuries."

The Military Commission Act retroactively approved the use of torture to the beginning of the 9/11 Wars. Congress's reaction to the ACLU report in October of 2005 was to pass legislation banning further use of the Freedom of Information Act to request documents on current military operations.

We are in a time of extremism, permanent war, and the unilateral manifestation of ethnocentrism and power by an openly public cabal of people in the U.S. government. Those in power are set on the U.S. military domination of the world. They seem willing to defy the foundational values of the American people to achieve their ends. We have no choice but to declare openly our belief in universal human rights and demand the immediate impeachment of George W. Bush and Richard Cheney and a full accounting of those in their administration.

Peter Phillips is a professor of sociology at Sonoma State University and director of Project Censored. He is co-editor with Dennis Loo of the new book "Impeach the President: the Case Against Bush and Cheney," available at:  http://www.projectcensored.org/impeach.htm

posted by: Whitebeard at 19:58 | link | comments |
us, civil rights, torture, censored news, nineleven

South Dakota, 11/6/06

 Pro-choice movement never more energized 

By Mary Lou Greenberg

Signs have gone up in many places on the Pine Ridge Reservation: “Children Are Sacred. Vote Yes on 6” (the South Dakota abortion ban up for a vote in the Nov. 7 election).

In opposition, Indian opponents of the ban have been distributing beautiful posters with the image of a woman, “Women Are Sacred. Vote No on 6.”

A poem on the opposite side of the flyer-sized  poster reads:

Women Are Sacred

It has always been that women are sacred
our mothers are teachers of our ways.
Women take care of themselves,
our children, our elders
and we all take care of the family.
The state legislature is
trying to apply rigid restrictions
on decisions that are sacred.

All women deserve to be safe from violence and
all children deserve to be wanted.
Tell the legislature to promote comprehensive
sex ed in our schools, tell them to work to
reduce domestic violence, and sexual assault.
Tell them to feed the hungry children we see every day.

Vote no on 6 and tell our elected officials
to take care of families. Send a message to
the SD legislature that Lakota women and
their families can make their own difficult decisions.

Vote NO on Referred Law 6.

Follow
 
 

posted by: Whitebeard at 19:22 | link | comments |
us, civil rights

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

November 8th, 2006

Friends,

You did it! We did it! The impossible has happened: A majority of Americans have soundly and forcefully removed Bush's party from control of the House of Representatives. And, sometime today perhaps, we may learn that the same miracle has happened in the Senate. Whatever the outcome, the American people have made two things crystal clear: End this war, and stop Mr. Bush from doing any more damage to this country we love. That is what this election was about. Nothing else. Just that. And it's a message that has sent shock waves throughout Washington -- and a note of hope around this troubled world.

Now the real work begins. Unless we stay on top of these Democrats to do the right thing, they will do what they've always done: Screw it up. Big Time. They helped Bush start this war, and now they should make amends.

But let's take a day to rejoice and revel in a rare victory for our side -- the side that doesn't believe in unprovoked invasions of other countries. This is your day, my friends. You have worked hard for it. I can't tell you how proud I am to count all of you as part of the greater American mainstream we now occupy. Thank you for all the time you gave this week to get out the vote. Some of you have been at this since the large demonstrations of February 2003 when we tried to stop the war before it started. Only 10-20% of the country agreed with us at that time. Remember how lonely that was? Some people were even booed! Now, 60% of the country agrees with our position. They are us and we are them. What a nice, strange, hopeful feeling.

A woman, for the first time in our history, will be Speaker of the House. The attempt to ban all abortion in the conservative state of South Dakota was defeated. Laws to raise the minimum wage were passed. Democrats were elected to fill Tom DeLay's and Mark Foley's seats. Detroit's John Conyers, Jr. is going to be the Chairman of the House Judiciary Committee. The Democratic governor of Michigan beat the CEO from Amway. The little township next to where I live in Michigan voted Democratic for the first time since... ever. And on and on and on. The good news will continue throughout today. Let's enjoy it. Savor it. And use it to get Congress to finally listen to the majority.

If you want to do one thing today, send an email or a letter to both of your senators and your member of Congress and tell them, in no uncertain terms, what this election means: End the war -- and don't let George W. Bush get away with any more of his bright ideas.

Congratulations, again! Now let's go find a spine for the Dems to do the job we've sent them there to do.

Yours in victory (for once!),

Michael Moore
mmflint@aol.com
www.michaelmoore.com

P.S. Thanks for all those photos you sent me of you with your brooms at your polling places. They're still coming in and we're posting them here throughout the day. And for those of you who asked how "Sicko" is coming along, the answer is: better than we ever expected! We're hard at work in the edit room and it will be in theaters in June. Thanks again, everyone, for your support

posted by: Whitebeard at 17:15 | link | comments |
us, civil rights, war, nineleven

Courage, american people!

More courage, please.

posted by: Whitebeard at 12:13 | link | comments |
us, civil rights, war, nineleven

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

CHAPTER III

CASTLES OF THE GUIDI

“Chiefless castles breathing stern farewells.

And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind,
worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd,
all tenantless, save to the crannying wind."

ON the hillside, above the ruined Castle of Porciano, grows a sorb tree, noted in the country for a remarkable echo which throws back with extraordinary clearness, from the wall of the old tower opposite, a sound uttered on this spot. A whole sentence will be repeated with the exact inflections of the speaker’s voice, yet with an added plaintiveness, which seems to belong to some other being; some spirit, perhaps, imprisoned in those mouldering stones. It might be the lost spirit of the past, still unburied and condemned to mock with idle repetition the million questions which we ask of it.
As you stand beneath the tree, with that enigmatical voice in your ears, and look down upon the pensive Valley below, stretching far away southwards, a hundred such mystic echoes are breathed back to you. Close by, upon a little rise, the jagged tower of Porciano fronts you, one—eyed and broken-fanged, like an old wolf, standing up dark and massive, flanked by the shattered walls of the castle, over the gorge of the unseen Arno. Beyond the river the steeps rise again, crowned farther down by the gaunt ruins of Romena, gigantic skeleton fingers pointing to the sky. More distant still, small stately Poppi hovers in the misty depths of the Valley, and far away Bibbiena may be just descried, a faint cloud speck against the blue pallor of the morning hills.
These towered heights, as one sees them in the early hours of the day, rising out of the river of mist which marks the winding course of the Arno, and sweeping away into the far distance between the long lines of the hills, remind one of those twilight times of the first Conti Guidi, when the castles held hands across the intervening valleys and represented an undivided strength and dominion. In their unbroken chain upon the river’s flood they might stand as symbols of that ordered authority flowing from a divinely-appointed source, which a poet dreamed of once here in the Valley. But as they emerge with the increasing hours into distinctness and take form and substance from the sunlight and shadow we see them as it were in the c1earer light of later history sundered by party differences and fraternal hatred, and breathing anger and defiance at one another across the narrow ravines, a picture in little of the divided Italy of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries . The eyries degenerate into nests of greedy carrion birds, the towers decay with their weakening lords, till now in the late afternoon of that historic day they appear empty, ruined, silent, the fleshless ribs  of the grand old past.
But their tragic aspect only enhances the beauty and peacefulness of this forgotten place. Here beside the sorb, on this hillside turned to the south, you may bask at midday with the lizards in the sun, though the year is sloping to its winter, and already nights and mornings have a keen tooth. Beside you is a pleasant green le a, spread with a few sparse chestnut trees. Behind rise up the rocky pastures and forest-hung slopes of Falterona, and in front is the blue immensity of valley, mountain and sky. The ebb and flow of a quiet human life pulses in the silence. From the castle opposite a steep path winds down to a fountain hid in the hol1ow at our feet, and all day long women descend and ascend with pitchers in their hands or bundles of linen poised upon their heads, for they are washing at the well, and voices call down with that sweet melancholy fall which carries the words as far as if they were song.
It is hard to think that this idyllic hamlet was once of some account in the world. Yet the ruined tower yonder represents the once redoubtable stronghold of those powerful barons, the Conti Guidi of Porciano, whose allegiance was an important element in the schemes and reckonings of an Emperor. The mountain paths were frequented then by ambassadors and knights and persons of importance, and travellers of all sorts. Wandering minstrels found their way to these Alpine regions, and rich merchants coming from the eastern ports with their strings of laden mules used to pass beneath the castle on their way to Florence and Pisa. The descendants of the Counts Palatine of Tuscany did not disdain to fall occasionally upon these last and re1ieve them of their wealth; for in spite of their ancient name and possessions the Lords of Porciano seemed to have lacked gentilezza. One who knew them well likens them to the swine which fed in the oak forests of Falterona around their castle, for it can hardly be doubted that the poet of the Divina Commedia intends to indicate them with a savage play upon words in the famous lines :

"fra brutti porci più degni di galle
 che d'altro cibo fatto in uman uso."

 Dante is believed to have stayed at Porciano at some period of his exile. The castle is situated precisely under the source of Arno, the locality from which the poet dates his two great political epistles, written in I3I I, though that somewhat .vague indication might certainly apply to Romena or even to Poppi, and here are no means of deciding which place is meant. Be that as it may, the memory of the poet is the proudest and most living tradition of the old castle, while the traces of its arrogant lords are now scarcely heeded. Time's revenge! There is a popular legend that Dante was imprisoned here by the Counts. There seems to be no evidence of this, yet the tradition may have some foundation. It is easy to fancy that he may have scourged them somewhat free1y with his scornful tongue for their lack of zeal and their selfish greed, and that they found it easier to silence him by  the bolts and bars of their dungeons than by argument, little reckoning with whom they had to do, and that one day they would be proclaimed porci  to all the world for all time. Such summary treatment of him might help to excuse the poet's scathing satire on his hosts, if their political vacillations and the disloyalty to the Emperor .who was come to redeem Italy were not enough in his eyes to loose him from obligation for a hospitality embittered very likely by contempt and neglect.
Of the old stronghold little is left except the great tower and some remains of the towers and walls which surrounded the great court. A few peasants live now in rude dwellings, once part of the castle, and their peaceful vines fin the enclosure where the baron's vassals used to assemble to follow him to battle, and where many a duel of play and of death has been fought. The remains of a great cistern which supplied the castle with water still exist beneath this court. Within the empty shell of the tower, which is pierced by many round-headed windows, traces of the old floors and chambers are plainly visible mounting upwards to the battlements, where the watchmen kept their look-out over hills and valleys for foes and for fat merchants. Fragments of the vaulting which once roofed the great hall still project from the walls, upon which remain traces of painted stucco. But for the rest the ground is a heap of fallen stones and rubbish, the old chambers which sheltered so many generations are open to wind and rain and the birds nest within them. Y our heart aches as you think of the many generations of lives that have been rounded within this place, which now itself, unshaken by a thousand Apennine storms, nor split by all the human passion which it once contained, lives on in a Tithonus-like immortality of age and solitude.
A fine old gateway admits into the precincts of the castle, and outside, still enclosed within the original outer girdle of walls, is the village, as ancient as the tower itself, and hardly changed from the time when the inhabitants were serfs and retainers of the baron, a part of his “family." The only thing that is modern is the church, a plain, commonplace little building, which contains an interesting triptych, an Annunciation with figures of SS. Raphael and James the Less on one side and SS. Margaret and John " Evangelist on the other, and a predella ,wit scenes from the legends of these saints. An inscription records that Count Neri of Modigliano (and Porciano) had it made in honour of the blessed Virgin and St. Raphael Archangel, 1408, and the arms of the Guidi of Porciano are in the corner of the predella. The colour is well preserved, and though without any special distinction the picture has the grace and charm and decorative qualities common to the early Tuscan painters. It is one of many productions of that prolific and artistic entity, Ignoto Toscano, which are to be found scattered throughout the Casentino, no doubt but a small residue, passed over by the modern collectors, of the many works of art with which the Guidi and the other great barons in the Valley once adorned the churches and monasteries.
Poised up here upon its hill Porciano held the little town of Stia, beneath, in subjection, with all the country round. But now life and activity have passed from the old corpse of feudalism to the wise little community which settled itself beside the rushing water below, and which from an insignificant handful of millers and sawyers and husbandmen, whose labour in peace and whose blood in war were claimed as tribute by their liege lord in the castle above, has grown into the flourishing little industrial town of to-day.
A rough causeway leads down to Stia from Porciano. Here we come upon another Dante legend. It is related that the Florentines, enraged by his denunciations of them in his epistles from the Casentino, sent an envoy to Porciano, to demand that the Counts should deliver him up to them. This individual, on his way up from Stia, encountered the poet himself descending; and not knowing who he was, inquired of him whether Dante Alighieri were in the castle. The answer was: “When I was there he was." At this the envoy continued on his way satisfied, and the poet hastened out of the reach of danger.
Stia is built along the right bank of the Staggia, a mountain torrent which comes down out of a ravine of the .northern hills and joins the Arno just beyond the bridge at the bottom of the hill. Nothing could be sweeter and fresher than the air of this little mountain town, seated at the sources of streams, which refresh your ears all day and at night with the sound of their rushing. It is a town of Arcady, seeming to have only just emerged from the misty gorges, which pierce behind it deep into the primeval forest. Though its prosperity comes from the busy modern c1oth mills which line the Staggia, Stia keeps a primitive gaiety and simplicity. The people themselves speak of it as ridente; an expressive word. There is one principal street, which descends the steep hill and widens .out between arcaded houses into a piazza, in the midst .of which stands a picturesque fountain. Some of the narrow side alleys are ancient and picturesque, with their blackened stone houses, loggias and outside staircases, and you get a charming view from the bridge that crosses the Arno behind the town, where, above the green swirl of the stream, a cluster of irregular rusty-coloured stone buildings stands up upon a massive buttressed wall.
The church, which stands in the main street, is one of a very interesting group in the Casentino, popularly called the Churches of the Countess Matilda, who is said to have founded a hundred churches in Tuscany. It is more probable, however, that these in the Valley were built by the Guidi, who in the eleventh and twelfth centuries established many religious foundations, for the remedy of their souls, but it is quite possible that the Grancontessa, with whom the Counts were intimately associated, may have shared in the pious work. The other churches are those of Romena, Strada and Montemignaio, and perhaps the ruined Buiano may be classed with them. All alike are of Romanesque architecture and are basilicas in form, with massive columns and round-headed arches, and an apsidal east end, and have very remarkable capitals of the curious Composite style of the period, carved with animals and human figures, volutes and stiff foliage, in a rude, grotesque, angular manner, which shows, nevertheless, a good deal of vigour and animation. The designs are of symbolic import, to which the decorative purpose is quite subordinate. The church at Stia has suffered from alterations of later date. An eighteenth century choir has been substituted for the original lapse, and the old façade has been destroyed, and half the last bay of the nave cut off at some time in order to widen the street outside. The floor also has been raised so that the bases of the columns in the upper part are hidden. Otherwise the nave remains unspoilt, with its noble pillars. In richness and elaboration the capitals are finer here than in any of the sister churches. On one of them there is a woman's figure rising out of waves, which is, I think, a symbolic presentment of Eve. Another, with some decorative feeling, is an angel with great drooping wings. There are various other quaint and curious designs. The same Count Neri who gave the triptych in Porciano church had an altar-piece painted by " a good master" in 14°7 for Stia, which is probably the Assumption now placed in the chapel on the left hand of the choir. This is a striking picture, showing the Madonna seated in a quaint and unusual attitude on clouds, surrounded by seraphim and dropping her girdle to St. Thomas, who kneels amid the Apostles below. The colour is richer and warmer than is customary with the Florentine primitives, and, has something of the brilliance of early miniature paiÌ1ting. ,: The gold background appears to have been repainted, and also some of the Apostles. In the chapel on  the other side of the choir there is a little ciborium  of Della Robbia majolica, an exquisite bit of Renaissance decoration, coloured white and blue, with delicate touches of pale green and yellow, and characteristically bordered with heavy garlands.
Besides these works of art in the church, there is to be seen at Stia, in the Municipio, a glazed halflength figure of the Madonna holding the Child, usually attributed to Andrea della Robbia. It is very much in the manner of that master, the Madonna being of the simple virginal type to which he has accustomed us, and the Babe posed in the same way as in many of his altar-pieces, but as a recent writer on the subject (Cruttwell, Luca and Andrea della Robbia, p. 228)  points out, the character of the child's face and the comparative coarseness of the modelling betray the less distinguished hand of Andrea's son Giovanni. This beautiful and touching work used to be in a roadside shrine near the town, and was one of many such treasures that the Valley possessed; one comes across numberless old stone shrines now empty of their sacred images which have been carried to museums and private collections, and no longer remain to protect the groves and fields. Many of them were doubtless glazed terra-cotta works of the Della Robbia, in whose characteristic productions some of the sanctuaries of the Casentino are still rich. Since these works have become of very great value, the open air tabernacles have suffered much from sacrilegious marauders. The Stia Madonna is badly cracked by the blows of robbers who were endeavouring on some occasion to force the statue from its shrine, but were fortunately surprised before they could carry out their attempt. There is, or was recently in a private house at Strada, a town a few miles from Stia, a polychromatic relief of the Della Robbia school which formerly occupied a shrine at the mountain village of Caiano. It was removed for safety to a chapel, but was stolen from there shortly afterwards, to be recovered later, in pieces, by a happy chance. A waggoner passing along the Consuma road detected it quite accidentally, hidden in a ditch. The adventures of this relief are typical of what many of these artistic treasures have suffered.
On the left bank of the Staggia, apposite the town, is the site of the vanished castle of the Conti Guidi of Palagio. Here lived the last Count of this line, Antonio, who oppressed the inhabitants of Stia, harried the lands and cattle of his kinsman, Count Piero of Porciano, and recklessly courted his ruin at the hands of Florence. After he had been driven out by Count Piero at the head of a large body of troops sent by the Republic, his lands, consisting of Stia, Palagio, Papiano and a few other insignificant places, were constituted into a commune with the name of Palagio fiorentino. On the right, bank, again, a' little way above Stia, stands the old. ,Castle of Urbech, where, at the beginning of the fifteenth century, Count Piero of Porciano was besieged and murdered by rebellious vassals, and where his descendants, ousted from Porciano by their cousins, the sons of Count Tancred, kept up their diminished power and dignity under the title of Counts of Urbech. Stripped of power and possessions by Florence, family and castle together felt soon into insignificance and decay. A mass of grim stone buildings, with solid walls which tell of fighting days, set upon a little rise on the right bank of the Staggia, represents the old stronghold. A door of stately Renaissance form, traces of a pillared loggia long filled up, show that it was adapted later to the needs and tastes of more peaceful times. A wild legend of one of the last Counts still clings to the old place. I t is said that one midnight, when a shameful orgy in which he had compelled all his vassals to take part was at its height, the castle was suddenly shaken by an awful thunderclap, and the devil himself appeared in terrific guise and carried off the guilty lord bodily from the midst of the trembling revellers. So popular legend weaves the memory of sudden Apennine storms and of old sins and calamity into a moral fable. Now the fierce, dissolute barons and their descendants of the stately sixteenth and seventeenth centuries are succeeded by a colony of peasants, who she1ter themselves and their sheep and asses in the dark stone chambers, and are as unaware of ghosts as birds in an ancient tower 'of the generations that have nested there before them; and the old feudal stronghold looks down upon ugly modern factories built just below it.
The road winds steeply up to the castle, and passing it, divides a little further on. The left-hand path' soon turns into a mule track, leading up by stony ways to the ancient village of Papiano, which consists of scattered groups. of dwellings clinging to the sunny hillside, each surrounded by vineyards and terraced fields, beneath the high Alps that defend them on the north. On the right the road pursues its way deep into the gorge of the restless Staggia, winding past rocky knolls, where a few lean sheep crop here and there among the stones, herded by barefooted peasant girls, and enters presently into the deep forest, among the grey gnarled limbs of secular chestnut trees, where the sound of hidden water running far below seems the very voice of the sylvan silence. Nothing meets you except perhaps a solitary girl with kerchiefed head and calm, curious eyes, slowly jogging along upon a donkey; unless it be the rime when the great timber sleds, each drawn by four yoke of oxen, come down in slow procession from above, with cracking of whips and noise of merry voices. After a time you come to Gaviserri, once a castle of the Guidi, and now quite swallowed up in woodland, with only a lonely church remaining. The pIace seemed, utterly abandoned .when we visited it last autumn;, even the Canonica adjoining the church was empty, and in the tiny desolate graveyard opposite the last priest of the parish lay among the scanty dead beneath the snow. We asked why another had not been appointed in his place, and were told that the church must' be vedova for a year and three days before it could have a new priest. I do not know the meaning of this strange custom, but certainly no place could have seemed more widowed than Gaviserri that day.
Within the church, a bare, modernised little building, there is a large altar-piece in better preservation than most of the Casentino pictures, although badly cracked in two places; the Madonna and Child, with SS. John Baptist and Clement, Bartholomew and Anthony. One is startled to find a work of so much beauty and dignity in this solitary place. The enthroned Virgin, gazing with gentle bent head upon the Child, the grave figures of saints-St. John with his poetic head and the deep, pondering countenance of the grey-bearded Anthony- have a deeply impressive effect in the empty church, where the silence is filled with the rustle of the forest and the monotonous sound of the stream rising from far below. In a gallery herded with a hundred others it would doubtless lose much of its distinction, but it is in any case the work of no mean artist (1). (1) A distinguished art critic, judging from a photograph, tells me that this interesting picture must be by one of the youngest generation of Verrocchio's pupils, some fellow-pupil of Lorenzo di Credi.
 A charming little sculptured ciborium of fifteenth.century Florentine workmanship is also to be  seen there.
The road continues on its lonely way from Gaviserri, following up the narrow gorge of a side stream and burrowing even deeper into the mountains towards the dark pine woods of Campigny, which, curtain the precipitous ravines further up. At Campigny there is a busy colony of woodcutters, and there the road ends. But a rough path leads on upwards through the forest and brings you after about an hour to the top of the ridge, where there is a magnificent view over the Casentino on one side and the mountains of the Alta Romagna on the other.
About two miles from Stia, further up the Arno, . stands the interesting Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. A road leads thither, passing by on the right, just after leaving Stia, a little oratorio which contains a small picture of some merito lt is a half-length Madonna in dark draperies, with a background of roses against a pale blue sky; the Child has been spoilt by repainting. It is probably early sixteenth century. Further on, the road passes an old building, now a farmhouse, but connected at one ti me with the Hospital of Sta. Maria Nuova at Florence. It has a picturesque loggia with some faded sixteenth century frescoes.
But the pleasantest way to Sta. Maria delle Grazie is by the river, through enchanting green meadows and groves of pale-stemmed poplars, with the _901 rush and ripple of the stream beside one; a path which has a strange charm in the evening twilight, when the woods grow pallid and the colour fades from the pastures and only the white bed of the river gleams, tinged with the sombre glow from the flocks of crimson seraphim deepening and darkening in the zenith, and you seem to be walking into the unknown regions of the gloomy mountains which tower up behind, shutting in the Valley.
The church stands high up on the hillside overhanging the gorge of the river; you know it far off by the spire of dark cypresses which rises behind it. It is impressive to find in this solitary place, surrounded by oak forests, a treasure-house of art, such as this little sanctuary, a votive offering to God of man's best, consecrating the wild places. Sta. Maria delle Grazie claims a miraculous origin. In 1428, when pestilence was raging in the Casentino and all the crops were perishing because of continuous rain and storms, a poor woman, called Monna Giovanna, was one day hoeing on this spot, when the Virgin appeared to her, and promising that the rain should cease, bade her go and tell the people to build a church in that place. But when Monna Giovanna hastened. to Stia and told the Piovano of the wonderful vision he would not believe her, and, weeping, she returned to the field, where the Virgin again appeared, and giving her a lighted torch, bade her go again with it to the Piovano. And though the wind blew furiously, the flame of the torch remained tranquil and steady while she carried it to Stia, where the priest; overcome with awe at the marvel, accorded her this time full credence. The church was built by his efforts and those of Count Neri of Porci- ano, assisted by the alms of the devout, and became a noted sanctuary, whither the country people crowded to seek protection for their flocks and fields. It was burnt down before long, and the present building was raised by the authorities of the Hospital of Sta. Maria Nuova of Florence, to whom the land belonged. The emblem of the hospital, a crutch, is carved over the west door. At the end of the seventeenth century it passed into the possession of the monks of Vallombrosa, who built a monastery beside it, which was called Vallombrosella, and is now the priest's house.
The little church is not architecturally remarkable, but it has a fine choir of Renaissance form, flanked with pilasters with charming arabesques and richly decorated with Della Robbia work. Round the cornice runs a frieze of cherubs, very charming in effect, though there is little difference or individuality in the baby heads, and they look rather as if cast from a mould. In the corners are medallions with well modelled figures of the four Evangelists, white upon blue, and a lunette-shaped recess on either side is filled with an elaborate polychromatic relief of the same glazed terra-cotta work. The one on the left hand represents the vision of Monna Giovanna. A Madonna of somewhat homely type sits surrounded by cherubim, and below kneels the poor peasant woman, .a very touching figure in her nun-like dress, her lean and e1derly face transfigured by devotion. S. Giovanni Gualberto kneels on the other side, and behind appears the shepherd Pietro, who, according to the legend, saw the light of the miraculous apparition while feeding his flock at a distance. The lunette opposite is a Nativity, with a singular1y sweet and graceful Madonna. Both pieces have elaborate landscape details, and it is interesting to note that the oak and chestnut trees of the neighbourhood are introduced into them. Chestnuts too are worked into the thick woven garlands which enframe them, and in which there are also snakes and all sorts of little decorative animals of the woods and fields, and each has an inner border of cherubs, which are modelled with much more care and show much more character than those of the frieze. The colour of both is rich and subdued, the workmanship good, and regarded merely as decoration they have much beauty, and though of course such work, which is a kind of bastard between sculpture and painting, cannot be looked upon as the highest art, it has a peculiar charm of its own. Underneath each lunette runs a line of blue tiles, with a legend now almost effaced, but on the Nativity side the numeral letters MCCCCC. may be distinguished. The seats fitted in below the lunettes are of a good period and are inlaid with narrow patterns. Over the stone altar, which is of the late fifteenth century, there is a very attractive little picture-a Madonna and Saints -conventional in style and .feeling, but painted with extreme delicacy and finish and in an excellent state of preservation, a Florentine work of the fifteenth century. The little shrine with fluted marble pilasters in front of the altar guards the fragment of rock upon which the Virgin stood when she appeared to Monna Giovanna.
In the body of the church there are two paintings of interest. That on the north side is a fresco of the Madonna, attended by angels, with a small half-length figure of the donor kneeling beneath, and an inscription with the date 1485. In colour and arrangement, and in the treatment of the draperies, this has a suggestion of Ghirlandaio. Over the door opposite hangs a tavola of the Madonna and little St. John adoring the Babe, a pleasing little picture, but coarsely painted. Nor do these exhaust the list of treasures, for beneath an altar, on the left-hand side, may be seen a delightful little Della Robbia Annunciation, full of grace, and there is also a holy water stoup by the same school, charmingly ornamented with coloured flowers and fruits.  
     Opposite Sta. Maria and nearer to the head of the Valley the old ruin of Castel Castagnaio with its cloven tower is seen ridging a lofty spur. Though there is little of interest left there now, the walk thither is very charming, and is typical of the wooded hill country which surrounds Stia. You cross the river beneath the church, where there is a fine new bridge building. But till it is finished you must do as folks have done for thousands of years, spring across upon a plank unsteadily set upon the stones in the bed of the  stream. Or if you go barefoot, in Casentinese fashion, you may wade through the shallow water, but take care that your feet be as brave and hard as a saint's, for the stones are very sharp. The chestnut woods begin on the other side, and you climb up and up the steep hillside, and passing through a gap in the rocks at the top of the ridge, find yourself on the verge of a narrow valley completely enclosed within the thickly-wooded . slopes of the mountains. The loud singing of a stream rises up from far below, and you look across to Castel Castagnaio, seated upon the opposite height above the russet curtains of the forest like some peacock with sweeping, gorgeous tail, or majestic head of an aged queen rising out of the vast folds of her falling robes. The Castle of the Chestnut Forest indeed ! One seems to have wandered into a romance or fairy tale, so apart from reality, so remote and lost in time, is this place. In the dreamy silence one listens for the sound of Sir Tristram's horn, or pictures Sir Percival slowly winding his way up to yonder mysterious tower. That mystic white stag that haunts enchanted springs and leads hunters to strange adventures should appear in some pale mossy glade between these ancient trees, that stand around with trunks. and limbs blanched in the pallid winter sunshine. Except in dream there is little company in the forest. Among the gaunt and mutilated stumps, blasted by many a storm, nothing stirs. Now and. Again  a single twitter of a bird is heard. Where the russet shroud of leaves is broken by a green open space. you may chance to hear a knocking, and  come upon an old man splitting logs beside a little stone house with smoke rising from beneath its roof, a seccatoio  where chestnuts are being dried. Or round a turn in the path will come a string of patient mules with great sacks of charcoal laid across their backs, followed by a charcoal burner with swarthy, blackened face, who bids you good morrow with the friendliest of smiles and perhaps lingers a moment to ask you whence you come and whither you are going. Or a trim maiden comes by, basket on arm, and stops to examine you with wondering eyes as you rest a while on a fallen trunk, and to question you with the freedom and curiosity of a primitive age, telling you in return all about herself and her sick mother in the woodcutter's cottage far above and her errand to fetch the medicine at Stia or some such simple tale.
     The path descends gradually to the level of the stream, where there is a little space of delicate green mead, scattered over with slender poplars, a fit 'setting for some idyll of the Golden Age. Then mounting  up again on the other side, you gradually approach the castle. Signs of life appear in the woods. A meagre flock of sheep are cropping the few sweet grasses that spring up between. the boulders; pigs scamper down the steep; the solitary song of a herd girl flows through the trees as continuously as the rustle of the brook below. A steep, winding causeway leads up to the Keep between the grim stone dwellings where the vassals of the Conti Guidi used to live and where now their descendants lead the same primitive existence. The old stronghold occupies the crown of the hill, thrust out over the gorge, and, beneath, the ground is terraced up with a succession of walls, from which it falls precipitously to a great depth. Nothing is left of the tower except one huge gaping fragment of masonry ; the courtyard, beneath which the old cistern still exists, is now a green plateau. Caste! Castagnaio, one of the most ancient of the Guidi' strongholds, belonged, after the division of the dominions, to the Counts of Romena, and later to those of Battifolle. It was never of much importance, but afforded a remote and impregnable refuge in times of danger. It formed part of the dowry of the Contessa Elisabetta of Borgo alla Collina, and was wrested from her by Count Roberto of Poppi. Later on the Count himse1f was forced to take refuge here from the vengeance of Florence, after fighting for Milan against the Republic, and being seized with the plague he died here in 1440. The castle passed into the possession of Florence with the rest of the Casentino in 1440.
    But the chief interest of Castel Castagnaio to-day is the view. You look across over the falling woods of the gorge and the silver stream far below to the blue slopes of. the hills beyond and the great chain of the high Apennines, sweeping' from the rounded crest of Falterona along the fretted ridges to where La Verna appears, a dark shape poised far away in the south-east. As Count Roberto lay dying up here, with all the scene of the former greatness and present calamity of his House spread out before him, the Rock where he and his mighty ancestors had knelt and done homage to the messenger of a joy beyond all worldly power and possession must have been the consoling vision upon which his eyes closed far the last time.

 

posted by: Whitebeard at 22:07 | link | comments |
dante, noyes

Saturday, November 04, 2006

 
CHAPTER IV
 
PRATOVECCHIO AND ROMENA
 
" . . . ; the ruined wall
 stands when its wind-worn battlements are gone."
 
The main road down the Valley from Stia leads after a short mile to the little town of Pratovecchio. Here was once a strong and important castle of the Guidi. On the death of Guidoguerra II it became the seat of his widow, the Countess Imilia, who founded a convent of Camaldolense nuns here for her daughter, the Abbess Sofia, the masterful lady who as we have seen ruled al! the country round from her monastic palace as regent for her young nephew, Guidoguerra IV. The castle fell to the share of the Conti Guidi of Dovadola in the sub­sequent division of the family dominions, and it must have been here that Dante stayed with Count Guido Salvatico, if vie may accept Boccaccio’s account of that baron's hospitality to the exile. Whether true or not, the belief that it once sheltered the divine poet is the chief pride of the little town. After being confiscated from the Counts of Dovadola by Florence, in the fourteenth century, Pratovecchio appears to have been joined later to the jurisdictioris of the Conti Guidi of Poppi, from whom it was definitely wrested in 1440 by the Republic. lt is now'a good dea! modernised. But it has remains of the wall_ and towers of its feudal past, and the porticoedstreets, striped with sunshine and shadow, are full of the picturesque colour and charm of the gay Italian life.  (The inn at Pratovecchio, kept by Oreste Spigliantini, is a comfortable resting-place. The rooms are large and airy, especially those at the top of the house, and the cooking is good.)
Beside the river stands the ancient convent of the Abbess Sofia, which stilI keeps its pale, white-robed inmates, who live strictly cloistered within their high walls, dead to the world. They are all, I believe, ladies of ;:lOble family, but the once rich and splendid community has been stripped ofits wealth, and alI theartistic treasures which it used to possess have had to be soldo There is also a convent of Dominican nuns in the town, who are called the Monache Nuove, while those of the more ancient foundation are called the Monache Vecchie.
Just beyond the town one comes to the old Badia of Poppiena, where there were monks even before the foundation of the Abbess Sofia's convent. But they have long vanished, and the church, which has a picturesque campanile, has been altered from its old form. Its only interest is an early fifteenth century picture of much charm and beauty, hanging in the choir, behind the high altar, an Annunciation, in bad condition, but preserving still to a great degree the fine miniature-like colouring and the brilliance of the gold. The figures, especially that of the angel, are notable far grace. While keeping to the conventionally idealistic treatment of the later Giottesques, the picture shows something of the new life which the more realistic painters of the period were imparting to FIorentine art. It has been claimed by a recent critic ( See the Rassegna d'Arte, Anno iv., No. 12, Dec. 1904) as the work of Giovanni del Ponte, an interesting painter of that time in Florence.
(note: An altar-piece formerly, in the church at Poppiena, is now in
the National Gallery, where, on account of its place of origin, it is attributed to Jacopo Landini, a fourteenth century painter belong­ing to Pratovecchio. The writer mentioned above, however, pro­nounces this also to be by Giovanni del Ponte. )

There are two or three delightful mule paths from Pratovecchio through the woods and aver the hills to Camaldoli. One way leads up the course of a little torrent called the Fiumicello, past the hamlet of Valiano, where there is a Pietà of Giottesque style in the little church, to Casalino, and thence up and up the bare and stony hillside almost to the top of the long ridge of the Giogana. After a walk of three hours or so, you descend through thick pine woods to the Sacro Eremo.
 Another path starts from Poppiena and goes up through idyllic groves of chestnut trees, and across an open moor, and then descends into the deep hollow where Moggiona lies, an ancient castle once of some importance and mentioned in a royal diploma of  933. There is nothing left ofthe castle, and the village is oflittle interest. From Moggiona the path climbs up again till the high road is reached, and after a short distance, you arrive at the old monastery of Camaldoli.
apposite Pratovecchio, on the right bank of the Arno, the hill of Romena rises abruptly from the water's edge and lifts its skeleton castle into the sky. Of all the ruined strongholds of the Casentino, Romena has the most tragic aspect. The stricken towers, rear­ing themselves above the parched terraces that circle the hill beneath, seem to tell, not of time's slow decay, but of some sudden destruction fallen upon them for their sins. lt is as if the heat of the illicit fires in which Maestro Adamo coined the false florins for the wicked Counts had seared the stones of the castle. From everywhere in the Valley the gaunt towers are conspicuous, standing up alien and apart, not sharing alike with the rest of the Valley in the sweet influences of the light and air. lf on a clear day there be but one little cloud in the sky, Romena will be black beneath it amid the golden and purple glory around. But when the Valley rests under a soft shadow, the towers stand up pallid on their peak, like un­tranquil ghosts. Again, on stormy days, they will appear above the rolling drifts of cloud, fired by a reflection from some unseen gleam of the lurid day. And in the evening dusk, when the sky quickens into a beauty of rose, and the hills to the east are warm and golden, Romena grows dark alone, the sullen towers scarcely reflecting the western splendour, and unkindled by any beam of candle within.
It is a long steep climb up to the Castle. The path at first is pleasantly shaded by chestnut trees, but as you approach the summit it becomes bare and stony, flanked only by a few scanty olives and thin vines, as it winds without the encircling walls of the stronghold. The Castle, set upon the crest and verge of the hill, must have been of great strength and size. It is said to have been defended by fourteen towers. One lofty tower still stands guarding the southern end of the great court or piazza, and at the north end rises the huge and massive Torre del Mastio, the last and inner­most defence and refuge in times of siege. It rears itself above an inner enclosure, where the palace of the Counts stood, and which is entered through a lower tower, once separated from the piazza by a moat and drawbridge. Some of the palace chambers still remain altered, however, by the various Podestàs who occupied the castle after it had fallen into the hands of Florence. The shields of some of these governors moulder on the walls. An ancient cistern exists beneath this inner Keep, and there was once a subterranean passage by  which the tower might be reached from the outer enclosure. The curious may also discover traces of dungeons and oubliettes.
 On the precipitous slopes of the hill below the remains of the many circles of walls may be seen. The outermost was half a mile in circumference, and a hundred families were once housed within the citadel,
within which there was also an hospital. Two ruined gateways are visible on the north side, and the ancient­- looking farmhouse beneath the castle on the south was once the Podesteria, or court of justice.
 This is all that is left of the home of the great Counts Palatine. The pleasant grass grows over the traces of Guido, Alessandro and their brother, who live on nevertheless for ever in the poet's terrible judgment roll. Perhaps, if we could read what was written long ago on the ground, we might discover here the lost footprints of the exile himself. There can be little doubt that Dante stayed at Romena or was at least acquainted with the place; that he climbed the hill and perhaps slaked his thirst himself at Fonte Branda be1ow. He m1ist have been thrown much into contact with Alessandro and Aghinolfo da Romena at the time that he was actively engaged in the affairs of the Bianchi, whose cause both brothers zealously adopted, and is likely enough to have been their guest. Perhaps here in the society of these descendants of mighty sires he may have been led to the philosophic meditations on the fallacy of deriving gentilezza from antica ricchezza, which he expounds in the Convivio. As he remembers the Counts in his great poem later only to damn them out of the mouth of Maestro Adamo, it is to be supposed that, if he did experience their hospitality, the obligation for it must have been wiped out afterwards by personal wrongs oi by treachery on their part towards his political ideals.
But however unworthy the disposition of its lords may have been, the hill-top of Romena was a fit abode for the lofty thought of a poet.  Though the castle walls are fallen now, the scene remains the same as then. Lifted up into the great concave of blue, you look down upon the emerald plain patterned by the shining coils of the river, and away over castles and villages to the girdling ranges of purple forest and silver rock and golden cloud. What a place at night this would be for one whose meditation was upon the significances of the heavenly spheres !
Just below the castle on the path down to the tiny hamlet you pass by Fonte Branda. The spring, with this famous name, by which it appears always to have been known, is now but a tiny trickle issuing from the hillside beneath a ruined stone archway. There can be little doubt, considering its position dose
to the earthly abode of Maestro Adamo, that it is this Fonte Branda, and not the fountain at Siena, which the false coiner recalls amid the tortures of the Inferno.
    Some half mile further down stands the splendid old Pieve, which is the best example of the so-called Countess Matilda's churches in the Valley, as it was very carefully restored in 1893 and the accretions of later times were cleared away_ It stands on the slope of the hill among the fields like some sanctuary in a medioeval romance which an errant knight comes upon unawares in a forest. Its solitary position gives it peculiar charm, and the effect of the noble exterior rising in pallid stone, fretted with rich shadows within a setting of green, is very beautiful. The semicircular east end, ribbed with. columns and pierced by round-headed windows, with delicate pillars dividing the lights, has been touched. only here and there by the restorer, and the crumbling state of the stone gives picturesqueness to the rich and simple contours. The sculptured work of the capitals has unfortunately almost completely perished. The interior is very noble and impressive, and is quite free from florid and tawdry ornament and adjuncts. The original proportions are however now lost owing to the destruction at some time of the two last bays of the nave. In its complete form the church must have been singularly long and narrow. The capitals are like those at Stia, and some of the same figures occur here, as the snarling beast with head turned round and tail curled over his back, and a curious design of a human head and feet, with draperies or wings, perhaps intended for a seraph. An inscription upon the last column on the south side: Tempore famis MCLII. (in the time of the famine 1152), apparently alludes to the building of the church, unless it be the date of a restoration. Upon the corresponding capital opposite one reads: Henricus (?) Plebanus fecit, also with a date in the twelfth century. The four faces of this capital represent the mystical Foundation of the' Church, under the figures of Christ committing the keys to Peter, the sons of Zebedee fishing, and the four Evangelic Beasts. The graceful pattern of grapes, wi th birds plucking at them, upon the abacus, doubtless signifies Christ as the Vine. A capital in the west wall shows a very grotesque Adam and Eve, and another column has a winged and feathered being on all the four faces of the capital, carrying on its head now a cross, now a creature with a long tail and four legs ending in c1aws, now a bird with a human head, while four grotesques form the angles. One would fain be a Danie1 to read these mysterious characters of medioeval religious art. I was told that the particular form of cross worked repeatedly into the ornamentation is the cross of St. Agatha, the protectress of the fìe1ds from storms and unfavourable weather. These sculptures are in wonderful preserva­tion, the thick coating of whitewash which had been spread over it and over the arches and the walls above for centuries till 1893 having protected the work so well that it looks as if it had been cut yesterday.
The remains of an older church may be traced in the present building: .part of the original masonry is built into the north wall, and the broken bases .of two old columns are embedded in the steps of the sanctuary. The crypt is also part of the first church. Its walls are in good preservation, and it contains the remains of the old stone altar and the bases of the columns which once supported the vaulted roof.
In the restoration of 1893 the floor of the church, which had been raised till almost level with the sanctu­ary, was lowered to the original level, and the hidden bases of the columns were uncovered, and the stone­work of them was renewed where it had decayed away. A wall which crossed the church from the belfry down to the corresponding door on the south side, dividing it into an upper part for the clergy and a lower for the people, was removed at the same time. There are one or two medioeval pictures in the church. An early Madonna and Child upon the left-hand wall, and on the opposite side, part of a triptych of Giottesque style, fourteenth century, the Madonna and Child, with SS. Peter and Paul below, the first with his hand upon the kneeling figure of the donor, perhaps one of the Guidi, whose head has a good deal of individuality, though the work otherwise is quite conventional. On a side panel are depicted St. John Baptist and St. Anthony. On the same wall hangs a fifteenth century painting of much interest, which has suffered terribly from decay. Faded as it is, however, the Madonna, with her fair face, deep-lidded eyes, and the slender, wistful Child upon her knee, keep their old grace and charm, and one can still appreciate something of the dignity of the saints grouped around her throne. The work is very reminiscent of the school of Domenico Veneziano and his followers.
       Romena on this side of the hill has a different and gentler aspect. Around and beyond the church there are woods and cool green glades scored by rocky water­courses, and the air is full of the rustling of hidden streams.
"li ruscelletti, che dai verdi colli
del Casentin discendon giuso in Amo,
 facendo lor canali freddi e molli."
It is in this guise that his earthly dwelling-place haunts the burning vision of Maestro Adamo in Hell
 and sharpens his intolerable longing. To pass from the mere terrestrial ardours of the hill-top at noonday into the chequered shade and rest on the margin of one of these rushing brooks is a sensation which brings home to one very vividly the cruelty of the fate meted out by "rigid justice," as interpreted by the poet, to the man who had sought to defraud the sacred seal of the Baptist of its truth and honour.
        A pleasant path from Romena leads through the woods and over a hill to Borgo alla Collina. Another and even more delightful way to the same place keeps. upon the slope of the hill over the Arno, now ascend­ing, now descending, to the edge of the rippling water, which spreads out here in shallow quiet pools, or narrows into a swift current, curling within a wide shingly bed, as it flows towards the towered hill of Poppi.
 

posted by: Whitebeard at 19:55 | link | comments |
dante, noyes, casentino


A manifesto for liberals
in the waning Bush era.
By Bruce Ackerman and Todd Gitlin

As right-wing politicians and pundits call us stooges for Osama bin Laden, Tony Judt charges, in a widely discussed and heatedly debated essay in the London Review of Books, that American liberals -- without distinction -- have "acquiesced in President Bush's catastrophic foreign policy." Both claims are nonsense on stilts.

Clearly this is a moment for liberals to define ourselves. The important truth is that most liberals, including the undersigned, have stayed our course throughout these grim five years. We have consistently and publicly repudiated the ruinous policies of the Bush administration, and our diagnosis, alas, has been vindicated by events. The Bush debacle is a direct consequence of its repudiation of liberal principles. And if the country is to recover, we should begin by restating these principles.
Here

posted by: Whitebeard at 19:01 | link | comments |

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Refusnik

SAN FRANCISCO, California, Oct 4 (IPS) - A U.S. soldier who went AWOL -- absent without leave -- over his opposition to the war in Iraq was incarcerated at the U.S. military's Mannheim prison in Germany Tuesday, pending an appeal in Washington this November..

Augustin Aguayo's imprisonment comes less than a week after he turned himself in at Fort Irwin in California's Mojave Desert. Aguayo, 34, had been in hiding since early September.
Follow..

It now seems quite likely, short of a major miracle for the Republicans, that the Democrats will win at least one, and probably both, houses of the U.S. Congress in the elections on Nov. 7. What difference will that make? I should say that I personally will vote the Democratic ticket. But like a lot of people, I will vote it primarily as a negative vote against George W. Bush and secondarily against the Republican majority in both houses. I shall do this for many reasons, but first of all because I think the invasion of Iraq was immoral, counterproductive, and in general a fiasco - for the United States, for Iraq, and for the entire world. There are many other complaints I have about the current regime - its attacks on the fundamental liberties of the American people, its retrogressive domestic economic and social policies, and its inept and unwise foreign policy in general. But Iraq tops them all as a reason. So I shall vote in protest, and to try to stop things from getting even worse.

Follow here  

http://fbc.binghamton.edu/195en.htm

posted by: Whitebeard at 20:13 | link | comments |
us, war, torture, censored news

Be Part of the Teach-in Monday night –

Host a Viewing

If there is not a teach-in scheduled in your area, all you need is a computer with broadband (DSL or cable) internet access in order to view the New York teach-in. You can project it to a class room or view it with a group of friends on a computer screen anywhere.

 Invite people to watch with you. Viewings are scheduled around the country, and the world. Register your viewing so we’ll know how many are watching. Details here.

 WHAT WILL THEOCRACY MEAN FOR WOMEN?

 The utterly hostile climate for women's reproductive rights emanating from the White House is bringing real danger to women in South Dakota through the country's first almost-total ban on abortions in that state. On Nov. 7th, South Dakota residents will decide to keep or toss out the most draconian anti-abortion law in the country. It makes no exception for rape, incest or the health of the woman.

 Is this attack on women's rights a major issue in the current elections? Is any major political figure calling for repeal of the new federal law that makes it a crime to help a young woman cross state lines to receive an abortion? Do people even know about this?

 This is why the national emergency teach-ins called by World Can't Wait-Drive Out the Bush Regime with the Bush Crimes Commission are so crucially needed. And it's not just the right to abortion, the next step in the agenda is to outlaw birth control.

 "January 2004: A woman is released from the emergency room. She's just been raped. After treatment, she is given prescription for emergency contraception (EC) to prevent her from getting pregnant by the attacker... A friend takes her to an Eckerd pharmacy in Denton, Texas, to fill the prescription. Thought the pharmacist had declined five or six times in the past to fill such prescriptions, this is the first time a rape victim has requested the medication. The pharmacist goes to the back room, prays, and calls his pastor before deciding not fill the prescription." – Cristina Page

 LET’S GET THIS ON C-SPAN

 The whole country needs to see this. So C-Span needs to get the message that YOU want to see it. C-Span invites viewers to submit suggestions of events for them to broadcast. Please write to them today, asking them to broadcast the national emergency teach-in in New York. The address to use is events@c-span.org

Featured Speakers in New York:

Dr. Les Roberts, an author of the study in The Lancet that there are a projected 650,000 civilian deaths caused by the war on Iraq.

William Goodman, Legal Director of the Center for Constitutional Rights.

Larry Everest has covered the Middle East for over ten years and is the author of Oil, Power, and Empire.

Chris Hedges, spent nearly two decades as a foreign correspondent for the New York Times, winning a Pulitzer Prize

Cristina Page, author of How The Pro-choice Movement Saved America describes the assault on both abortion and contraception.

This event will be held at: Synod Hall of the Cathedral of St. John the Divine
110th St & Amsterdam Avenue, New York, NY

7:00 pm, Monday, October 30 (doors open at 6:30). Suggested donation $10-$20

Delayed national broadcast on the Internet the same evening. See World Can't Wait for details on viewing.

Please contribute AND set up a viewing where you are Monday.

Find other teach-ins through World Can't Wait or organize your own.

posted by: Whitebeard at 12:10 | link | comments |
us, war, torture, censored news, nineleven

 

About me

User: Whitebeard
Name: Urbano Cipriani
A retired teacher of history and litterature.

Iscriviti al Vaffanculo Day
Non voglio dimostrare niente, voglio 
mostrare. Federico Fellini

  • Contact me
  • My profile
  • Linkme

Recent comments

Counter

visited *loading* times